Welcome to The Roarbots’ series of Parks Canada Adventures. Similar to our NPS Adventures, this series takes a big-picture view of a single Parks Canada site and highlights some of the best activities it has to offer. This is usually done through a kid-friendly lens and almost always includes activities and suggestions we can recommend from personal experience. And pictures. There are lots and lots of pictures. Glad to have you aboard!

Welcome to Port au Choix National Historic Site!

Off the beaten path doesn’t really begin to describe this one. The windswept northern peninsula of Newfoundland is already fairly remote by most measures. And Port au Choix is far enough off the main road that most people either pass it by or don’t even know it’s there to begin with.

It’s literally a small peninsula off a much larger peninsula off an island most Canadians never even get to. So it was pretty much a “must stop” badge of honor for us.

Port au Choix is a small site that doesn’t have the world-class vistas of Gros Morne National Park to the south or the vibrant “lived-in” history (and Viking allure) of L’Anse aux Meadows to the north. But it does boast 6,000 years of human history as the home to numerous First Nations people (including Maritime Archaic, Dorset, Groswater, and Beothuk) long before Europeans arrived in the 16th century.

The first artifacts were discovered here in 1904, and the site would eventually become one of the richest archaeological finds in North America. Today, the site preserves that archaeological treasure trove (which includes three ancient cemeteries) along the rugged coastline that’s probably changed very little over the last 60 centuries.

In fact, local people still fish and launch their boat from basically the same place native people did for millennia. The modern town of Port au Choix is also a great place to get a taste for “true,” non-touristy Newfoundland. We spent the night, met some locals, and ate cod tongue. Recommended!

Stats

• Port au Choix National Historic Site
• Location: Newfoundland
• Established: 1970
• Admission: $7.80 (Canadian) per adult; senior, youth, and group rates available
• Social Sites: Twitter, Facebook, YouTube

(Click on all pictures to embiggen.)

Museum and Visitor Center

The only real significant structure, the visitor center houses a small but detailed museum exhibit about the long history of the site and the many different peoples who called it home. On display is a full-size, replica Dorset dwelling, along with authentic artifacts unearthed around the peninsula: spearheads, bone needles, religious artifacts… and a seal penis flaking tool.

Coastline & Hiking

The small Port au Choix peninsula is a wild and windy place. It’s dominated by exposed limestone bedrock, and all you have to do is walk 10 feet to understand why Newfoundland is called The Rock. In addition to 6,000 years of history, this place is also home to dozens of rare plants, including three that are endemic only to Newfoundland. If you’re a botany buff, keep your eyes peeled for barrens willow (a woody shrub with reddish-brown stems), Fernald’s braya (small white flower clusters with fleshy basal leaves), and the taller Long’s braya.

There are also three trails that traverse the peninsula: the Dorset Trail (3km one way) leads from the visitor’s center to Philip’s Garden, the Coastal Trail (1km one way) leads from Philip’s Garden to old Port au Choix, and the Point Riche Trail (3km one) goes from Philip’s Garden to Point Riche.

The Dorset Trail crosses the peninsula and is the best bet if you’re interested in those rare plants – or the local caribou. Though the caribou are often around Point Riche, they do tend to wander. The other two trails will get you a better taste of the archaeological remains… and the ruggedly beautiful coastline.

Point Riche

If you’re only going to make one stop at Port au Choix, it should be the museum so you have context for why this site is so important. If you make two stops, head up the road to Point Riche. It’s an easy drive up a paved road from the visitor’s center, and there’s a large parking lot right at the Point Riche lighthouse – an octagonal lighthouse built in 1892.

Point Riche is the westernmost point of the peninsula, and it kind of feels like the ends of the earth. It’s here that you’ll get a true sense for the “wildness” of Newfoundland in general and Port au Choix in particular.

Spend some time here. Explore the limestone barrens, enjoy the rough waters that lick the rocky shore, spend time with the caribou (if they’re around), and soak up 6,000 years of history.

Red Chairs

If you make it to the Point Riche lighthouse, you’ll find the red chairs. The splash of color in this desolate place is hard to miss. But they provide a spectacularly perfect view of the coastline. And you’ll want to linger. But be careful – it’s bound to be chilly and windy, no matter what time of year you visit.

Xplorers

If you have kids, Parks Canada’s Xplorers program should not be missed. Most sites in the system offer an Xplorers booklet, which encourages kids to ask questions, discover hidden corners of the park, keep their eyes open, and be active visitors. It’s a must-do feature of every Parks Canada visit, and the kids delighted in earning their dog tags at each location.