Backroads Travel is an occasional series that focuses on out-of-the-way, lesser-known, or otherwise off-the-beaten-track travel destinations that are nevertheless well worth the time and energy it takes to get there. These are places that might not be highlighted in your travel guides or pop up in typical Google searches. They’re the hidden and unsung wonders of the world.

From 1892 to 1924, Ellis Island was the United States’s largest and most active immigration station. More than 12 million immigrants were processed there. For most, it was an “island of hope” and a mere stepping stone to New York and America beyond. But for many others – who either made the journey ill or became sick en route – the island became a prolonged home… or a final stop.

In 1902, the main hospital building opened on the island, and expansions over the years enlarged it to ultimately house 750 beds, an administration building, a psychopathic ward, contagious disease wards, and an isolation ward. At its peak of operation in the early 20th century, this was the largest public health service facility in the United States and its patients arguably received better care than most Americans.

About 1.2 million people – around 10 percent of Ellis Island arrivals – passed through its doors. Some 350 babies were born there and 3,500 people died there. However, in 1954, the entire Ellis Island complex closed down and by 1955, it was declared surplus federal property.

Over the next few decades, with the island all but neglected, most of the buildings slowly started falling down. Though the main immigration building was ultimately restored by 1990, the hospital complex was left in its dilapidated state.

Today, you can step off the beaten path, away from the mobs of tourists, and tour its crumbling hallways on a “hard hat tour.”

So, what is this exactly?

The hard hat tour is an opportunity to visit the south side of Ellis Island, where the immigrant hospital sits, decaying and practically forgotten. For its time, it was a state-of the art hospital that included 30 buildings, including staff residences and a mortuary (which you’ll visit).

This is a 90-minute walking tour through select parts of the hospital, including the infectious and contagious disease wards, kitchen, laundry building, and mortuary and autopsy room.

How is it different from the regular tour?

Included in the price of your ferry ticket/admission to Statue of Liberty National Monument is a self-guided audio tour of the Ellis Island National Museum of Immigration that I highly recommend. It’ll help make sense of the island’s place in history and is helpful to pace your visit through the many stellar exhibits in the museum.

The National Park Service also offers free 30-minute tours of the museum, which include the Registry Room (Great Hall) on the second floor. Those tours chronicle the island’s history during the busiest years of immigration of 1892 and 1924.

By contrast, the hard hat tour meets near the museum’s information desk but then immediately moves over to the hospital complex on the south side of the island, which is normally off limits to the public. The only way to visit the hospital is on a hard hat tour. These tours are also administered by an independent non-profit called Save Ellis Island (i.e., they’re not run by the National Park Service).

It’s also NOT free and requires a bit of advance planning. Tickets are $53.50 per person ($60.50 if purchased online, which you’ll likely need to do to secure a spot). However, this includes the cost of the ferry to both Ellis and Liberty Islands, which normally costs $25.50 (if you plan to go up to the pedestal of the Statue of Liberty). So, figure on the hard hat tour essentially costing about $35 on top of a normal ferry ticket.

OK, sounds cool. How do I sign up? And what else do I need to know?

Spots on the tour can be hard to come by during the busy season, so advance reservations are highly recommended. Reservations can be made with Statue Cruises or by calling 1-877-LADYTIX (1-877-523-9849). You can take a chance by just showing up at the information desk on Ellis Island and asking about same-day availability, but I wouldn’t count on it. There are only a few tours every day, and they do fill up.

Some quick important bits of info you’ll need to know:

• You must be at least 13 years old to go on the hard hat tour. (Sorry kids!)
• You must wear closed-toe shoes. (Trust me, you’ll want them.)
• The actual tour lasts 90 minutes and includes about 1.5 miles of walking, but your reservation will be for the ferry 90 minutes before THAT. So you’ll have some time before the tour to explore Ellis Island and the museum.
• You can get tickets for ferry departures from either New York (Battery Park) or New Jersey (Liberty State Park).
• There are no restrooms in the hospital or on the tour.
• Tours run rain or shine.

Then what?

Once you’ve arrived at Ellis Island, make your way to the information desk/ranger station on the main level of the museum. It’s kind of hard to miss. Check in for your tour, and the Save Ellis Island volunteers will tell you to report back 5-10 minutes before your tour starts.

Once your tour begins, it’s go-go-go for 90 minutes!

Why is this a “hard hat tour”? Are they really necessary?

It’s kind of a moot point since you’re required to wear one. As far as how “necessary” they are, though… you’ll be walking through buildings that are very literally falling down around you. The immigrant hospital has not been actively maintained or restored much since it shut down in 1954.

The walls are crumbling. Most of the windows are shattered. The floor is uneven and cracked. The random bits of furniture and fixtures that remain are more rust than anything else. There are stalactites growing down from the ceiling (yes, really). And you’ll spend much of the tour stepping over broken bits of concrete, plaster, wood, glass, and ceramic.

So while the hard hats might not be “necessary” on every tour, all it takes is one piece of falling debris to land on your noggin to make them worthwhile. This is pretty much a neglected construction zone. You’ll be thankful for the protection.

You’re also required to wear closed-toe shoes, which is kind of a no-brainer. Even this avowed flip-flop aficionado would opt for real shoes if given the choice.

Will I see ghosts?

Probably not. Our tour guide mentioned that some employees over the years have mentioned seeing or experiencing unexplained… things. But he also made a point to say that he personally felt the idea of pitching this section of Ellis Island as “haunted” is disrespectful to the people who actually lived, stayed, and died in the hospital.

The halls and walls throughout the complex are dripping with history. These rooms were home to hopeful immigrants who not only traveled around the world to find freedom but also were unfortunate enough to fall ill during the journey.

That being said, the immigrant hospital is certainly inhabited by history – not ghosts.

Alright, no ghosts. So what will I see?

You’ll see a part of Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty National Monument that’s in a startling state of disrepair. Save Ellis Island has made strides over the years to try to preserve the hospital buildings, but it’s a massive undertaking that’ll take many years to complete.

In the meantime, the non-profit relies on income such as that generated from the hard hat tours to continue their efforts. So if you go on the tour, rest assured that you’re helping them fund future restoration plans while also enjoying this piece of relatively undiscovered New York.

But enough jibber-jabber. Here are some highlights of what you’ll actually see while on the tour…