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Backroads Travel: Explore Western Brook Pond & Bonne Bay at Gros Morne National Park

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Gros Morne National Park is the undisputed jewel of Newfoundland. Located on the west coast of the island, it’s about as far from the provincial capital of St. John’s as you can be. And it’s pretty much the primary reason we ventured up to the far-flung island in the first place.

The park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and geological wonderland. I’m not gonna lie – this is off the beaten track, even for many Canadians. But if you can make the journey here, you’ll be rewarded at nearly every turn.

It’s one of the only places in the world where you can walk on Earth’s mantle. The trek to the top of Gros Morne Mountain is an incredibly challenging hike that takes you from sea level to an alpine terrain and rewards you with legitimately breathtaking views (and caribou). And there’s no shortage of trails, backcountry, and coastline to explore in this vast national park.

If you only do one thing in Gros Morne… well, shame on you. You really can’t come all this way and only do one thing. But if you’re struggling with a list of priorities and relatively limited time, a cruise of Western Brook Pond (which is a Canadian Signature Experience) should be at the top of your list.

Don’t let the name fool you, Western Brook Pond is a massive freshwater glacier-carved fjord surrounded by billion-year-old cliffs that tower some 2,000 feet (600 meters) high. The lake is 10 miles (16 km) long and about 540 feet (165 meters) deep. It’s big.

And it’s just about the most dramatic bit of nature you’ll find in this part of Canada. In fact, it’s probably the most impressive and awe-inspiring scenery in all of Newfoundland and the Maritimes. You’d have to go WELL off the beaten track and venture FAR north into Labrador for anything else comparable (e.g., my personal bucket-list destination, Torngat Mountains National Park).

The best – and really only – way to experience Western Brook Pond is on a boat cruise along its length. There’s only one official concessionaire authorized by Parks Canada to take passengers – BonTours. Two-hour tours cost $65 (Canadian) per person (kids are cheaper) and are worth every penny. Like I said, this experience should be top of your list in Gros Morne.

There are between five and seven departures per day (during July and August), but be sure you make reservations in advance. Tourist season is relatively brief this far north, and tours DO fill up. During the “shoulder season” of June and September, there’s only one tour per day.

Western Brook Pond is about 17 miles (27 km) north of Rocky Harbour, which is more or less smack in the middle of the park and home base to most travelers exploring Gros Morne. There’s only one road through this stretch of the park (Route 430), so it’s hard to make a wrong turn. Just head north.

From the well-marked parking lot, there’s a 2-mile hike along a wide gravel road to the dock. Figure about 45-60 minutes for this easy hike, but do note that there’s no shade along the way.

Once everyone is all checked in and on board, the boat begins its journey toward the fjord and impressive cliffs that beckon from across a brief stretch of open water.

It’s at this point that I’m going to shut up and let you get a sampling for what’s in store.

From the eastern end of the lake (seen above), intrepid hikers begin the demanding, multiday, truly backcountry Long Range Traverse. Seriously, there’s no official trail, and Parks Canada requires hikers to pass a navigation test – with compass – and attend an orientation before heading out.

The slightly less intrepid can still trek up to the top of the gorge for the quintessential view back down to Western Brook Pond. You’ll see this view everywhere in Newfoundland. It’s on practically every tourist brochure and piece of marketing for the province.

In addition to running cruises on Western Brook Pond, BonTours also operates other tours and experiences around Gros Morne. Check here for a complete list of what they offer. We were fortunate to have some time on our hands, so we also got to enjoy their tour of Bonne Bay (prices and times here).

Two boats per day cruise around the bay in the heart of Gros Morne, and you’re rewarded with phenomenal views of the Tablelands (and its exposed mantle), a unique perspective of the quaint village of Norris Point, and bald eagles (and possibly whales).

The two-hour tour leaves from Norris Point and is (mostly) fully narrated, so you really get immersed in the local history, culture, wildlife, and geography of the park and bay. Gros Morne has fascinating geological stories to tell, and the good folks at BonTours make it as entertaining and interesting as possible.

If you have the time and are itching to get back out on the water for a unique perspective on the park, I heartily recommend the Bonne Bay tour. Plus, odds are good that you’ll also get a screech in. And can you really say you’ve been to Newfoundland if you don’t see/participate in a screech in and kiss a cod?

I don’t think so.

(Thanks to Go Western Newfoundland for their assistance. All opinions remain my own.)

Jamie Greene
Jamie is a publishing/book nerd who makes a living by wrangling words together into some sense of coherence. Away from The Roarbots, Jamie is a road trip aficionado and an obsessed traveler who has made his way through 33 countries (and counting). Elsewhere on the interwebs, he's a contributor to SYFY Wire and StarWars.com and hosted The Great Big Beautiful Podcast for more than five years. Watch The Roarbots on Youtube

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